Could this be the first 8b boulder problem on Southern Sandstone?
On Tuesday evening conditions on the rocks were seemingly perfect as local climber and Chimera guest route setter, Ben Read, managed to successfully send what could well be the hardest bloc in the South East by adding two extremely powerful moves to the low start of the notorious Eridge boulder problem - Brutus Maximus (8a+).
According to Ben, the problem was “significantly harder” than the original line.
Another Tunbridge Wells based sandstone specialist, Barnaby Ventham, was unable to repeat the problem, but claimed it was “definitely much harder than Dont Pierdol (8a+)”, which has for some time retained the accolade of being the hardest problem in the region.
Understandably, Ben has been unwilling to commit to a definite grade for the problem and is thus waiting for some strong Northerners head down and hopefully repeat it to confirm the grade. If anyone is tempted, rock on down and give it a go…
Tuesday seemed to be a good day for hard sends for sandstone climbers. Barnaby also made a repeat of the laborious and formidable Larger Frenzy (UK6c) at Harrison’s Rocks.
This steep and dynamic top-rope line was originally put up by Dave Turner, the first ascensionist of the classic High rocks climb Chimera, from which we get our name. The climb is rarely in condition and consequently has seen only a handful of ascents over the years.